Cosmetic FAQ

Cosmetic FAQ

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Do I have to consider special process rules when formulating with MIRAGE or SYNCRYSTAL pigments?

Yes, you should avoid grinding and milling of effect pigments. If the mechanical stress to the pigments is too high, the pigment particles might break or the metal oxide layer might be removed from the mica platelets, resulting in loss of luster or change in shade. The effect pigments always disperse very well without any grinding due to their large particle size and the virtual absence of agglomeration.


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What kind of effect can I obtain by using different particle size pearlescent pigments?

Small particles with average particle size <20 µm create silky and satin effects and will opacify the mass. They enhance the hiding power of formulations and provide good coverage as well. Larger sized particles (20-150 µm) create high luster effects, either sparkling or dazzling, combined with very high brilliance and transparency.

Particle SizeEffectSilver and subtle shimmer effectsGold to redbrown effects
10 - 50 µm Strong pearl effectsSYNCRYSTAL Silver
SYNCRYSTAL Gold
SYNCRYSTAL Red
SYNCRYSTAL Blue 
 
20 - 150 µm Sparkling effectsSYNCRYSTAL Sparkling Silver 
10 – 70 µmGraceful EffectsMIRAGE Bright Silver
MIRAGE Bright Gold
MIRAGE Bright Blue 
 
15 – 120 µmSparkle EffectsMIRAGE Sparkling SilverMIRAGE Sparkling Luxury Gold
MIRAGE Sparkling Bronze
MIRAGE Sparkling Copper 
35 – 150 µmLuxurious Effects MIRAGE Glamour Silver
MIRAGE Glamour Gold
MIRAGE Glamour Red
MIRAGE Glamour Blue
MIRAGE Glamour Green 
 
100 – 700 µmGlitter EffectsMIRAGE Twinkling Silver  


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When formulating with MIRAGE or SYNCRYSTAL pigments, are there any major incompatibilities known with other raw materials?

No, these pearlescent pigments show excellent compatibility with most other cosmetic raw materials including pigments and dyes for use in lipstick/ lip gloss formulations.


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Are ECKART effect pigments generally animal derived?

No, the VISIONAIRE, MIRAGE and SYNCRYSTAL effect pigments are not animal derived.


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Are MIRAGE, SYNCRYSTAL and VISIONAIRE pigments resistant?

Yes, SYNCRYSTAL Silver and Interference are heat stable up to 600°C.
SYNCRYSTAL Silver and Interference can be used in the range between pH 2 - 11.
MIRAGE Silver and Interference pigments are heat stable up to 500°C.
MIRAGE Sparkling Luxury Gold is heat stable up to 120°C.
MIRAGE Silver and Interference pigments can be used in the range between pH 2 - 11.
MIRAGE Sparkling Luxury Gold can be used in a range between pH 5 - 9. 
MIRAGE Glamour Sapphire should be used in the range between pH 4 - 7.5.
MIRAGE Glamour Sapphire have a lower light stability than any other pearlescent pigments (color fading under light exposure)
VISIONAIRE Aluminum pigments can be heated up to < 160°C.
VISIONAIRE Colored and VISIONAIRE Copper/Bronze pigments should be kept < 100°C.
VISIONAIRE Aluminum pigments can be used in the pH-range between 4 - 8. 
VISIONAIRE Colored and VISIONAIRE Copper/ Bronze pigments can be used in the pH-range between 4.5 - 7.5.
VISIONAIRE pigments are not sensitive to light exposure (exception à VISIONAIRE Colored have a lower light stability than other metallic effect pigments)


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Could it come across any UV-light instability when using ECKART effect pigments?

Yes, there are carmine containing pearlescent pigments which do have a lower UV-stability than all other effect pigments due to the carmine.


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Are MIRAGE and SYNCRYSTAL pearlescent effect pigments suitable for any kind of system?

Yes, with the exception of ferric ferrocyanide containing pigments like MIRAGE Glamour Sapphire, which could face stability problems in water containing systems (bleeding/ discoloration).


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Are there any regulatory limitations for the use of pearlescent pigments?

There are no regulatory limitations for MIRAGE and SYNCRYSTAL pearlescent pigments in EU and Japan.
Pearlescent pigments > 150 µm are not recommended for the eye area applications. Pearlescent pigments containing ferric ferrocyanide are not permitted in the USA for lip/ oral applications. 


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What kind of effect can I obtain by using different particle size metallic pigments?

Smaller particles (5-50 µm) create brilliant effects with very high coverage. Larger sized particles create high luster (15-70 µm) or sparkle effects (20-95 µm) with characteristic metallic shine.

Particle SizeEffectGold EffectsSilver EffectsCopper Effects
5 - 50 µmBrilliant effectsVISIONAIRE Natural Gold
VISIONAIRE Olive Gold
VISIONAIRE Sunflower Gold
VISIONAIRE Maize Gold
VISIONAIRE Honey 
VISIONAIRE Amber 
VISIONAIRE Silver Sea VISIONAIRE Cinnamon
 VISIONAIRE® Lava 
15 - 70 µmBright effectsVISIONAIRE Bright Natural Gold
VISIONAIRE Bright Sunflower Gold
VISIONAIRE Bright Honey
VISIONAIRE Bright Champagne
VISIONAIRE Bright Silver SeaVISIONAIRE Bright Cinnamon
VISIONAIRE Bright Lava 
20 - 95 µmSparkling effects  VISIONAIRE Sparkling Silver Sea 


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Are VISIONAIRE metallic effect pigments suitable for any kind of system?

Yes, VISIONAIRE aluminum, bronze and copper pigments should not be used in water containing systems.


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Do I have to consider special process rules when formulating with VISIONAIRE metallic pigments?

Yes, you should avoid grinding and milling of effect pigments. If the mechanical stress to the pigments is too high, the pigment particles might break or the SiO2 layer might be removed from the pigment surface, resulting in loss of brilliance. The effect pigments usually disperse very well without any grinding due to their large particle size and the virtual absence of agglomeration.


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Which ECKART effect pigments can be used in lipstick and lip gloss applications?

For lipstick and lip gloss applications, the choice of effect pigments comprises the MIRAGE and SYNCRYSTAL pigment range as well as the VISIONAIRE metallic pigment range.


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What is the recommended use level of pearlescent pigments in lip products?
Finished ProductUse Level SYNCRYSTAL (transparent system)Use Level SYNCRYSTAL (colored system)
Lipstick0.5 – 3 %10 – 20 %
Lip balm0.5 – 3 %1 – 5 %
Lip gloss, transparent0.5 – 5 %2 – 10%
Lip lacquer2 – 5 % 10 – 15 %
Finished ProductUse Level MIRAGE (transparent system)Use level MIRAGE (colored system)
Lipstick0.1 – 0.2%4 – 10% 
Lip gloss2 – 8% 8 – 12%


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Can I color my lipstick/ lip gloss formulation without using iron oxides?

Yes, VISIONAIRE colored metallic pigments or MIRAGE Earthtone pigments as well as MIRAGE Sparkling Luxury Gold can be used to provide color to lipstick and lip gloss formulas. Metallic pigments will not only color the product but also provide a metallic brilliance, in contrast to iron oxides.


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Are there any regulatory limitations for the use of pearlescent pigments in lip applications?

No, there are no limitations for pearlescent pigments in lipstick/lip gloss application in EU/Japan. Exceptions: Pigments containing ferric ferrocyanide like MIRAGE Glamour Sapphire are not permitted for lip products in the USA.


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Are there any regulatory limitations for the use of metallic pigments in lip applications?

Yes and no, it depends on the region. There are no limitations for aluminum and bronze/ copper pigments in Europe and Japan. Aluminum pigments are not permitted for use in lip/ oral applications in USA, and VISIONAIRE Bright Red 7 is not permitted for eyes/ lips in USA due to presence of Red 7.


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Do I have to consider special process rules when formulating VISIONAIRE metallic pigments into water based gels?

Yes, VISIONAIRE aluminum, bronze and copper pigments should not be used in water containing systems. 


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Can I color my loose or pressed powder formulation without using iron oxides?

Yes, colored pearlescent pigments like MIRAGE Sparkling Champagne or MIRAGE Sparkling Luxury Gold and VISIONAIRE colored metallic pigments can be used to provide color to lipstick and lip gloss formulas. Pearlescent pigments will not only color the product but also provide a subtle shine, in contrast to iron oxides. Metallic pigments will not only color the product but also provide a metallic brilliance, in contrast to iron oxides.


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Can I use any ECKART effect pigments for nail varnish applications?

For nail varnish applications, the choice of effect pigments comprises the SYNCRYSTAL and MIRAGE pigment range, METALURE aluminum pigment dispersions, the VISIONAIRE aluminum pigment range and especially SILVERDREAM metallic pigment preparations exclusively developed for nail polish applications. VISIONAIRE copper and bronze pigments are not suitable for nail polish formulations. Carmine containing pigments are not recommended for nail varnish, as the carmine may fade over time under light exposure. 


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Are there any regulatory limitations for ECKART effect pigments in nail varnish formulas?

No, there are no regulatory limitations for any kind of ECKART effect pigments in nail varnish in EU, Japan or USA.


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What can I do if sedimentation occurs in my nail varnish formulation?

Sedimentation of pigments could appear. Use a nail base containing thixotropes such as stearalkonium bentonite or fumed silica for proper suspension of pigments. 


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What is the recommended use level of metallic pigments in loose or pressed powder formulas?

Desired effect

Finished Product

Recommended concentration

Remarks

Skin coloring

Pressed eye shadow

30 - 70 %

Metallic pigments exhibit more slip due to their metallic nature and lower oil absorption than pearl pigments and therefore need less binder.

Loose eye powder

Up to 100 %

Little or no binder necessary

Highlighting, sparkling effects

Blusher (loose or pressed)

1 - 5 %

-

Face powder (loose or pressed)

1 - 5 %

-

Body powder

 

1 - 5 %

-


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What is the recommended use level of metallic pigments in lip products?

Finished Product

Level of use:

Lipstick

10 - 17 %

Lip gloss, transparent

0.5 - 2 %

Lip lacquer

2 - 13 %


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Do I have to consider special process rules when formulating with VISIONAIRE® metallic pigments?

Yes, you should avoid grinding and milling of effect pigments. If the mechanical stress to the pigments is too high, the pigment particles might break or the SiO2 layer might be removed from the pigment surface, resulting in loss of brilliance. The effect pigments always disperse very well without any grinding due to their large particle size and the virtual absence of agglomeration.


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Are VISIONAIRE® metallic effect pigments suitable for any kind of system?

No, VISIONAIRE® Bright Champagne and VISIONAIRE® Silver Sea should only be used in anhydrous systems due to their reactivity in contact with water.
For VISIONAIRE® copper effect pigments, water-free systems are recommended as well as the addition of antioxidants especially in combination with vegetable oils.


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Could I come across any UV-light instability when using ECKART effect pigments?

Yes, there are carmine containing pearlescent pigments which do have a lower UV-stability than all other effect pigments due to the carmine.